![]() They could be on the verge of going out or have a loose wiring connection. This means that there’s a problem with either the sail switch or the high-temperature limit switch. Related Cold Weather Camping Gear: What to Pack For a Winter RV Adventure Troubleshooting: The Furnace Runs Intermittently ![]() Other problems like the circuit board or dirty ignitor probes can also cause this issue but require an RV technician to check. When winter camping, use a tank cover, tank warmers, and/or warming lights to keep the tanks and the regulator warm and protected. | Photo: Brenda PuckettĮxtremely cold and damp outside temperatures can freeze the regulator. ![]() A furnace intake exhaust vent on the exterior of an RV. You’ll need an RV technician to remove these obstructions. Reset the system by turning off the furnace at the thermostat and turning it on again to allow the ignition process to restart.Ĭheck the exterior exhaust vent to make sure that it isn’t blocked with spider webs or mud dauber nests-a telltale sign of this is soot on the side of the RV exterior. If your furnace has tried to ignite three times unsuccessfully, it will give you a fault light and go into appliance lockout. ![]() Start by checking that the propane tanks (and the LP detector in some furnace types) are turned on and that you have enough propane to provide the high level of British thermal units (BTUs) needed for furnace operation. | Photo: Brenda Puckett Troubleshooting: The Furnace Fan Runs, But The Propane Flame Doesn’t Light Air isn’t necessarily cold during this time, but it might not be as hot. Your furnace also has a high-temperature limit switch to cool down the burn chamber. Have patience and understand that this is normal. Cold air also blows at the end of the cycle for about 45 to 90 seconds (sometimes up to 5 minutes) while the fan purges the system. You’ll feel cold air blowing during this initial procedure. A blower fan must reach a minimum number of cubic feet per minute (CFMs) before telling the propane ignition process to begin. | Photo: Brenda Puckett Troubleshooting: The Furnace Blows Cold Airīecause the furnace utilizes propane as its fuel source, there are several safety features that are enacted before the system fires up. There could be a few other issues that cause the furnace to not kick on that need to be addressed by an RV technician, including loose wiring connections and circuit board problems. Make sure that it’s set to “Heat” or “Furnace.” Next-remember that the thermostat operates from the 12-volt DC coach battery-ensure that your battery is fully charged and then check the 12-volt fuse panel to make sure the furnace fuse isn’t blown. | Photo: Brenda Puckett Troubleshooting: The Furnace Doesn’t Turn on After Setting the Thermostatīelieve it or not, this can be as simple as adjusting the setting on the thermostat. You can help prevent this issue by vacuuming the return area once per month (or more during cold weather season). This is a problem that requires an RV technician to remedy. This can cause an important component called the “sail switch” to get dirty, preventing it from sending a signal to the furnace system that conditions are safe to ignite the propane. The return air compartment doesn’t have a filter and is often located under the refrigerator or someplace low to the floor-this allows dust, food, and debris to get into that area. Related What to Do When Your RV Heat Goes Out Troubleshooting: The Furnace Shuts Off Within 30 Seconds Let’s take a look at a few common problems and troubleshooting solutions for your furnace. RV furnace issues range from the pilot not lighting to blowing out cold air. It’s usually located behind a wall with the only visible elements being the return air vent (located in the interior) and the intake/exhaust vent on the exterior of the RV. The appliance itself is typically not visible.
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